Sep 16, 2008
A week around Brittany
1st day: Paris-St Malo via Chartres for its cathedral and some of the most beautiful stained glass.
We stayed at the San Pedro hotel, a great two star with view on the ocean and an amazing host. Thank you Mireille for your infinite kindness. Dinner at Coquille d'Oeuf (20 Rue Corne de Cerf, 35400 Saint Malo - 02.99.40.92.62) was very enjoyable.
2nd day: the Mont Saint-Michel. Dinner in Cancale at le Pied d'Cheval (10 Quai Gambetta, 35260 Cancale - 02.99.89.76.95), a great seafood restaurant.
3rd day: St Malo - Ploumanch via the Côte d'Emeraude (Dinard, Cap Fréhel). Dinner at le Mao, Ploumanach, for a delicious and unbeatably cheap seafood platter. Stayed at the Castel Beau Site Hotel and wished i had never seen that white stain on the curtain. I found the best Kouign Amann ever. It is in Ploumanach at the Fournil St Guirec (148 rue St Guirec, 22700 Ploumanach - 02.96.91.41.16). If fleur de sel caramel were a pastry it would be Ploumanach's Kouign Amann. I also tried the apple Kouign Amann and it was as if Mrs Tatin and Mr Kouign Amann had a child. The apple was a perfect compliment to the decadently sweet and buttery Breton pastry. If I didn't eat another Kouign Amann until the end of my life, it would be alright because I have tried what could possibly be the best.
4th day: Ploumanach - Morgat
We stayed at the Grand Hotel de la Mer, a Belle Epoque building with a very kitschy interior. The beautiful view from the terrasse overlooking the ocean and the deserted pebbled beach to the right compensated for the shitty cold stinky rooms. The lack of any outstanding restaurants in the vicinities and the really bad instant coffee served in the morning were quickly forgotten when we hit the road to get to the very end of the continent: the Pointe de Penhir. A magnificent sight.
5th day: Morgat - Douarnenez
On our way to Douarnenez/Tréboul we stopped by what is probably one of the most beautiful village in Brittany: Locronan, where I ate the best galette ever. Aside from its very common name, nothing about Ty Coz (Place de l'Eglise 29180 Locronan - 02.98.91.70.79) is average. The crêperie is extremely charming, the service is great, the cider delicious and the galettes made me think that since nothing else will ever compare, it would be fine if I didn't eat another galette for the rest of my life.
We spent the night at the lovely Hotel Ty Mad, a place I highly recommend both for its wonderful restaurant (the dinner and breakfast were equally delectable) as well as for its tasteful interior design, cozy atmosphere and warm welcome.
I loved Tréboul's cemetery overlooking the ocean.
6th: Douarnenez - Vannes
Our last night in Brittany was spent in a lovely place, away from everything, in the middle of nowhere near Vannes (it took quite a bit of driving back to where we came from and missing the right exit over and over) in a place called le Clos du Gusquel. Charming hostess with a gift for fixing an exquisite breakfast.